For 12V universal coils, there are two categories: those coils with an internal resistor, and those for use with an external resistor. An external ballast resistor like those commonly cataloged for classic Mopars or a resistance wire contributes another 1. The net effect is the same, with a 12V supply and 3 ohms of total resistance, the result is 4 amps of current flowing through the circuit.
Using the same formula as before, with a 12V supply and only 1. Advertisement Occasionally, a customer may request a 6V coil for their classic vehicle, or possibly a vintage tractor. While the primary resistance of the correct 6V coil and the 12V external-resistor coil are similar and I have heard of a few old-timers using them interchangeably on vintage tractors , using the 12V coil with an internal resistor can drop the current below the threshold required to fire the plugs reliably, especially at higher RPMs.
Attempting to use a 6V coil in a 12V system or a 12V coil in a 24V system will lead to rapid coil failure, so choosing the correct coil for the application is critical. In most cars, a failing ignition coil or coil pack will also cause a check engine light. However, keep in mind that a check engine light may be caused by a wide variety of other issues, so having the computer trouble codes read by a professional is highly recommended.
Modern ignition coils are much smaller because they only need to power one or two spark plugs each. They can be mounted either remotely or directly on top of the spark plug — called coil-on-plug or Direct Ignition.
The symptoms of a failing coil pack are the same as a failing ignition coil — misfires, rough idle, being hard to start, higher fuel consumption, loss of power, or even stalling. The higher fuel consumption is because your car needs to use more fuel in order to make up for the lack of power. More boost, more airflow, more fuel, more horsepower, more performance, etc.
However, more voltage does not always mean better in the world of ignition coils. Davis says that the OEM coils were notorious for drop off above or about 5, rpm. One may also ask, which brand of ignition coil is the best? Most ignition coils are long lasting and reliable, but a weak coil you can be the cause of under-hood havoc. You cannot operate a car smoothly without delivering high voltage to the spark plugs to ignite the air-fuel mixture.
These kinds of coil problems are usually caused by heat and vibration. Most recent gasoline cars have a direct ignition , also called coil on plug, system where each spark plug has its own ignition coil. Before that, cars used a common ignition coil for all cylinders.
Such a failure obviously can't happen on a direct ignition system. The difference between the two, per your question, is the amount of resistance and voltage. An electronic ignition coil will fry the points on a breaker system; a breaker system coil will not deliver enough energy for an electronic system to function properly. How often should you replace ignition coils? This part is used each time you try to start your engine, which is why it is so important that it remains repair free.
The ignition coil on your car is supposed to last around , miles or more. For electronic: Bosch KW 0 1. The difference between the two, per your question, is the amount of resistance and voltage. An electronic ignition coil will fry the points on a breaker system; a breaker system coil will not deliver enough energy for an electronic system to function properly. Ed , Brad has just clarified what you need with the technical stats too of the coils required.
It was a lucas coil I used on marelli based system , lucas normally gets bad press but some items do actually do the business. Not familiar with your motor factors but I still get a kick out of calling them up and asking for a set of points , then the silence , then "sorry what was that you've asked for " makes my day. Hope you get sorted, they many a wise man on here to keep you right! I ordered the correct one Ok Ed, I'll bite. To generate a spark, the coil's primary winding current is interrupted by the points, or by an electronic switch.
This causes a collapse in the magnetic field which in turn generates a high voltage in the secondary winding. In order to perform well at high revs, the coil can't have too high a primary resistance because the current takes a finite length of time to build back up after it's interrupted to be enough to generate a good spark the next time it's interrupted.
This is known as "dwell" time. Points have a fixed dwell angle, controlled by the points gap that you set. This means that at low revs the dwell time is long and at high revs the dwell time is short. Thus for points the dwell angle is a compromise between adequate sparks at high revs, and overheating the coil at low revs. Along with this, a 12V points type coil needs a resistance of around 3 ohms to give good performance without overheating.
The big advantage of electronic ignition is that it can provide the correct dwell time to suit the revs, thus not overheating the coil at low revs and still giving a good spark at high revs.
Therefore electronic type coils can have much lower resistance, typically 1 to 1. The upshot is if you use a points type coil with electronic ignition you are not getting the best out of the system. If you use an electronic type coil with points you will overheat it and burn the points. If you use a too low resistance coil for your electronic system, you will overstress it and possibly release its smoke.
Does that help? Yesterday I finally upgraded my 30 year old coil with a red coil from Vicks. Although my original coil worked, the car run much smoother with the new coil, especially when it is hot. I have to say thank you to Vicks Auto The first coil that was shipped out to me was damaged and they sent another one out ASAP.
It is great to have decent vendors support our cars I wanted to add one more note to this..
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