Don protective gear—gloves, goggles, and a dust mask—to save yourself from exposure to the metal dust particles. This is absolutely critical. Then, using either a sanding block or sandpaper, rough up every side, corner, and crevice on the object. Whatever tool you choose, start with a coarse to grit paper before sanding the surface a second time with a finer grit grit or higher.
Wash the piece again with warm water and a degreasing cleaner to remove any dust from the sanding process; dry completely. Its special formulation contains chemicals that micro-etch the surface of the aluminum for the best bond possible. Then, lightly sand the piece again with grit sandpaper, and wipe away the resulting dust using a rag.
When purchasing your dust mask, make sure that it is rated for sanding dust. Sand the metal with coarse-grit and with fine-grit sandpaper. Buff the entire surface using smooth, circular motions and or grit sandpaper. Wipe the dust off with a tack cloth, then buff it again with grit sandpaper.
If the or grit sandpaper created deep gouges, follow-up with and grit sandpaper before moving on to grit. Sanding the metal will help give the primer something to stick to. Rinse the surface again with warm water and degreaser. Fill your tub or bucket again with warm water, then add a few pumps of a degreasing cleaner. Rinse the metal off with this solution, then rinse it again using plain water.
Allow the metal to air-dry before moving on. Alternatively, you can wipe the metal down with a tack cloth. Part 2. Purchase a can of self-etching paint primer. Do not use regular paint primer, even if it is labeled "for metal.
Purchase a can of "self-etching primer" from a home improvement store or an auto specialty store, and use that instead. Cover any areas that you don't want painted with masking tape.
If you need to mask off a large area, cover it with paper or plastic sheeting first, then secure the edges with masking tape. Find a well-ventilated area to work in. While you can brush paint onto aluminum, you have to spray the primer on. The aerosol cans that paints and primers come in release fumes, which can cause headaches and lightheadedness. Outside would be the best option, but if you can't work there, choose a large room with good ventilation and open windows. A respirator mask is a must.
Do not paint if it is raining or humid outside, as this can affect the curing process. Spray an even coat of self-etching primer onto the aluminum. Shake the can for about 30 to 60 seconds first, then hold it about 8 inches 20 cm from the surface.
Spray on a light, even coat using overlapping strokes. You can spray side-to-side or up-and-down. Overlap each stroke ever so slightly to ensure that you are covering the surface evenly. If your can has a different set of application instructions, you should follow those instead. If you are working with a multi-sided object, let the first side dry to the touch before priming the other sides. Let the primer dry for 15 minutes before adding a second coat.
Check the can again to find out exactly how long you should wait before applying a second coat. Most primers will have a "between coats" drying time and a curing time. Refer to the "between coats" time for this. In most cases, you'll have to wait between 5 and 15 minutes. Add 2 to 3 more coats, then wait about 1 hour for the primer to cure.
Again, check your can to find out exactly how many coats of primer you should use and how long you should wait for it to cure. In most cases, you'll need about 3 to 4 coats of primer and wait about 1 hour for it to cure. If you don't wait long enough, the paint and primer may peel. Double-check the instructions on the can for more specific curing times.
Remember to apply light coats of primer. This will help it cure properly. If you slap on a thick coat, the primer may go tacky or just peel off. Buff away imperfections with grit sandpaper, if needed. Once the primer has cured, take a close look at it. If you like the finish, you are ready to move on. If it looks rough, pitted, or drippy, lightly buff the surface with grit sandpaper. Double-check the masking tape after this. There is a common misconception that the same steps should be followed when painting all types of metal.
To an extent this is somewhat true but with each metal there is a slightly different process that should be followed to achieve the best looking and most durable finish. Aluminum can be tricky because it can sometimes be difficult to get paint to stick directly to it. If paint is applied directly to aluminum without primer, sooner or later it will begin to bubble peel up or chip. In order to achieve a quality painted finish on bare aluminum, you must first clean the metal with PRE Painting Prep or some type of solvent.
For further information view our policy. Our preferred Aluminium primer choice is Zinsser Bulleye Zinsser produce a 3 in 1 primer that is a quality aluminium primer. The coating is a primer, sealer and stain killer in one. It is for interior and exterior use and is ideal for glossy finishes and hard to adhere to surfaces such as bare aluminium. The primer is mould and mildew resistant meaning that it can be used in areas of high humidity such as utility rooms, bathrooms and kitchens.
Bullseye is an ideal bond coat for galvanised areas like duct work, bare aluminium surfaces, metal panels and doors both internally and externally. For a tough adhering aluminium primer with flat finis h this is a perfect choice. The special metals primer by Rust-Oleum is the perfect priming solution for aluminium and other hard to coat metal surfaces.
It is touch dry in an hour, perfect for when speed is required and provides a flat matt finish when dry. Hammerite makes a special metals primer that is water based and is suitable for aluminium, galvanised metal and copper. The primer is suitable for rust treatment and can be applied to surfaces that are exposed to humidity, rain and rust.
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